I spent the past week hanging out with 20 year old, San Clemente, pro surfer, Kevin Schulz before, during, and after his win at the Rip Curl Pro Tofino. For most of the locals in town, this was their first time witnessing Kevin’s light footed style, and for many, that was when they threw in the towel.
Photography navigated my life through the bullshit, allowing me to secretly expressed myself in a less harmful way than drinking and adrenaline. I placed undertones of anxiety, loss and regret in my work, while relating to my surroundings. By telling my story through photos and words it allowed me to connect with a lot of people who normally wouldn’t open up. Photography gave me a golden ticket into these people's homes and minds. Words & photography extract from "Bad Reputation", a new piece Published (in print) for Desillusion Magazine.
I fawking love surfing naked!!!
The treasure will likely be his death.
This Is Why You Should Wake Up Early”
It was either the heat of the sun or the fact that I had just destroying everyone in a game of Settlers Of Catan, but everyone was hot as balls. With zero convincing, we jumped up, slapped the sand from our asses and paddled out into the surf in boardshorts and cutoffs. Remember, this is British Columbia, not Oaxaca, so the waves are small and cold year round. I wish I could show you the juxtaposition of everyone else wearing wetsuits booties, gloves, hoods but that shot didn’t turn out... After shooting a few laughs with my 35mm thrift store reusable waterproof film camera, I surfed one in with my shorts on my head.
The first time I surfed was seven years ago. It was here in Tofino with four strangers, one of whom was Eliel Hindert. A small, bouncy, and enthusiastic professional skier, Eliel welcomed me into his car to ride the ferry, where I fell asleep under a row of seats with a newspaper as a pillow. The old, beat up car was parked below us, packed like a Tetris game. Looping through each door several times was one single piece of rope that secured the four pink and yellow sponge-top surfboards. When we arrived just outside of town, we set up camp and ate canned beans beside the local dump. The next morning, we bobbed on our rental surfboards like wet rats floating on driftwood. We were hooked.
Behind the scenes of our Exploring The Cold Coast Story, up on National Geographic Adventure.
My mind is going lucid inside itself.
Surfer: Noah Wegrich.